Tuesday 25 March 2014

Deconstructed beehives and luminous skin dial up the romance for Fall:Mikael D backstage beauty



As runway light bounced off intricate embroidery at the Mikael D Fall 2014 show, the skin gleamed just the same. M.A.C senior artist Jane McKay drew inspiration from the opulence of Baroque textures and designed a fresh-yet-glamorous look. Radiance was an important element in the makeup: “It’s all about the play of light bouncing off the skin,” said Ricky Boudreau, M.A.C senior cosmetics trainer, who lead the team backstage.

Models’ skin was moisturized with Strobe Cream and kept lustrous with a light application of Mineralize Moisture Foundation and Concealer. Boudreau softly sculpted the cheeks with Sculpt Powder and added an additional hit of illumination with an iridescent loose powder—“Silver Dusk”—applied around the eye, from brow to cheekbone. Brows were simply groomed with Brow Set in “Clear.” Finally, eyelids were drenched in bronzed gold tones and intensified with a set of MAC #33 lashes and multiple coats of mascara. Boudreau pressed a layer of “Half & Half” lipstick into the lips with his fingers for a neutral pout.

Over at the hair station, lead stylist Paul Pereira was bringing hair to new heights with a modern twist on an iconic ’60s style: the beehive. After seeing the ornate Mikael D garments, Pereira decided that he wanted to “embrace the high glamour, but in a more relaxed way.” Using the Session Label line by Schwarzkopf OSIS+, he prepped models’ strands with Sea Salt Spray to give an initial grit and hold. To create a strong base, hot rollers were placed in a small back section just underneath the crown; those curls were then teased and tucked into a roll. Plenty of disheveled texture was added by backcombing several sections with a tail comb. These sections were swept over the “rolled” base, and the beehive took form. Pereira continuously worked with Extra Hold Hairspray to mould the shape and achieve more volume. To polish off the messy height, the front section of hair was elegantly smoothed to one side and secured behind the ear.

The nails—long and oval—were just as elegant, yet understated. The team from Sparks Salon used OPI gel polishes in “Alpine Snow” and “Did You Ear About Van Gogh?” to create a white crescent moon shape and a nude base, respectively. A dainty crystal gem adorned the middle of each crescent to play up the designer’s couture-like creations.

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